Hannah Sowd
The Serious Skin Care Blog
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What's wrong with organic skin care?


Nothing! I think many organic products are lovely.

However, there are several reasons my products are not certified organic.

Skin care products can be divided into two categories: maintenance and corrective. Maintenance products help to maintain the current condition of your skin while corrective products correct issues like acne, melasma, and the effects of aging.

The majority of my work centers around corrective skin care. My clients want to improve, not just maintain, their skin.

Corrective products need to contain high performance ingredients to be effective. High performance ingredients are dose dependent so they must use chemically standardized plant extracts.

These ingredients do not meet the guidelines set forth by the FDA to be considered "organic" however, they are not "toxic" either.

Vitamin C is a perfect example. It is readily available in citrus fruit yet the potency of juice from an orange can vary greatly. Recreating a the l-ascorbic acid molecule in a lab allows the manufacturer to guarantee the effectiveness of the dose each and every time. This lab created molecule is identical to that found in nature while still being chemically standardized. The color, pH, odor, solid content, viscosity and levels of specific performance related chemicals are consistent. This assures you get results from your skin care products!

That being said, there are some toxic ingredients to look out for when choosing your skin care products. Parabens have been linked to certain types of cancer, sulfates can be drying and harsh to the surface of the skin. Many inexpensive, widely used preservatives contain formaldehyde.


Hannah Sowd is a San Francisco based esthetician and massage therapist. She is the owner of Hannah Sowd Skin Care .






Anti Aging Secrets: proactive versus reactive


When it comes to your anti aging strategy, are you proactive or reactive?

Proactive:
serving to prepare for, intervene in, or control an expected occurrence or situation, especially a negative or difficult one; anticipatory: proactive measures against crime.

Reactive:
1.tending to react.
2.pertaining to or characterized by reaction: a reverse movement or tendency; an action in a reverse direction or manner.

During my 17 years in the skin care business, I have seen my proactive or preventive maintenance inclined clients fare far better than those that react once problems begin.

The latest high tech ingredients are designed to prevent as well as correct but have a far better chance of working when intervention is premature.

Skin is made up mostly of collagen, the foundation that gives your skin its support and thickness. Collagen is protein made up long chains of amino acids strung together, when it is broken down, short segments of 3-5 amino acids form, called peptides. This is a natural part of the aging process.

Applying peptides directly to your skin is a way to trick your skin into thinking that it has lost collagen recently and needs to make more. The most popular peptide for cosmetic use is palmitoyl pentapeptide (Matrixyl).

The key to getting the best results from a peptide product is to begin using it before the damage is extreme. The long term results from using a peptide based cream at age 30 are going to be better than the results from the same product at age 40.

Proactive prevention is a key component in the anti aging process!

Hannah Sowd is a San Francisco based esthetician and massage therapist. She is the owner of Hannah Sowd Skin Care .


Laser Tattoo Removal


Tattoos are often considered permanent, it is possible to remove them, sometimes fully, but often there is a shadow of ink or a scar left behind. Tattoos gained popularity in the 90's, tattoo removal gained popularity in the 00's!

Early forms of tattoo removal included the injection or application of wine, lime, garlic or pigeon excrement. Tattoo removal by laser was performed with continuous-wave lasers initially, and later with Q-switch lasers, which became commercially available in the early 1990s. Today, "laser tattoo removal" usually refers to the non-invasive removal of tattoo pigments using Q-switched lasers.

Tattoo removal lasers break down the ink in the tattoo then the broken-down ink is absorbed by the body, mimicking the natural fading that time or sun exposure would create. A tattoo laser must be capable of emitting adequate energy within the given absorption spectrum of the pigment to provide an effective treatment. Certain tattoo pigments, like yellows and greens are more challenging to treat than darker blacks and blues, because they have absorption spectra that fall outside or on the edge of the emission spectra available in the tattoo removal laser.


A 19 year old, black tattoo on my ankle after 17 laser treatments.


Tattoo removal sessions vary in intensity, largely depending on the practitioner and the laser device. Laser tattoo removal must be performed by a doctor, or in some states, a registered nurse. It is not uncommon to have some blistering and swelling at the treatment site after a laser treatment. This actually speeds the breakdown of the ink.

On average, it can take 12-15 treatments to completely remove a tattoo. Depending on the size of the tattoo, each session can cost $125-$300 and even higher.

Tattoo "removal" is a very popular service, however, be aware it may not be as easy as it sounds!

Hannah Sowd is a San Francisco based esthetician and massage therapist. She is the owner of Hannah Sowd Skin Care .

Antioxidant Therapy

I'm excited to announce the newest addition to sōwd:therapy for skin: Antioxidant Therapy.

Designed for all skin types, this light serum combines 18 powerful "3D antioxidants" to deliver amazing results. It captures the power of Acai Berry, Gogi and Noni fruits, Coffeeberry, white and green teas, pear, hibiscus and pomegranate to fight the signs of aging, reduce inflammation and discoloration.


Pomegranate fruit, hibiscus flower, mango, noni fruit, white tea, mangosteen, coffee berries, acai berries and goji berries are all important ingredients in Antioxidant Therapy.

Daily use of Antioxidant Therapy will inhibit free radical damage that can lead to inflammation, dryness, aging and discoloration. It can be layered under your favorite SPF during the day and moisturizer in the evening.

Hannah Sowd is a San Francisco based esthetician and massage therapist. She is the owner of Hannah Sowd Skin Care .



"Do I need to use a toner?"


Q: Do I need to use a toner?

A: First, I want to clarify the difference between an astringent and a toner. An astringent contains mild exfoliating ingredients and leaves the skin feeling tingly after its applied. A toner is mild, usually  without alcohol, and designed to balance the PH level or soothe the skin.

Excessively oily or acne prone skin can benefit from an astringent with active ingredients designed to remove oil and treat acne like salicylic acid.

Dry or combinations skin types can skip the toner. If your feel your face is still dirty after cleansing, wash it again. Just like shampoo directions: lather, rinse, repeat. We always cleanse the skin twice during professional treatments; the first cleanse removes dirt and makeup, the second cleanse cleans the skin. If you like the feeling a mist on your face or the smell of a particular toner (which can be lovely!) then by all means, use one! However, I don't think they are necessary for the health of your skin.

And more importantly, skipping the toner allows you more time to spend applying important products like eye cream!

Hannah Sowd is a San Francisco based esthetician and massage therapist. She is the owner of Hannah Sowd Skin Care .

Welcome Veronica!

Veronica has been on a life-long journey toward health and healing. She has always been intuitive, compassionate, and passionate to understand how the mind-body are interconnected in the process of healing. At age 19, she took her first class in Hatha yoga and fell in love with it. Fourteen years later, she became a yoga instructor through Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Centre in Val Morin, Quebec and began to apply Swami Vishnu-devananda’s five principles in proper exercise, proper breathing, proper relaxation, proper diet, and positive thinking and meditation in her daily life.

As her yoga practice deepened, the physical, emotional and mental layers began to peel away. This process allowed Veronica to make changes in her life. One of her big challenges was to reduce stress from work. Her 13-year journey working as a Spanish classroom teacher was contributing to a stressful life. She reduced her hours and began classes in massage therapy. She later became a Certified Massage Therapist and Health Educator. She completed over 1350 hours with an emphasis in Neuromuscular Massage Therapy, Trigger Point Therapy, Shiatsu, Swedish, Deep-Tissue, Myofascial Therapy, Sports Massage, Clinical Massage (Injury and Rehabilitation & Pain Management), and Pre-Natal Massage among other techniques. Veronica strives to tailor an individual’s treatment by integrating ancient and modern modalities. She focuses to create a space that is open, inviting, and supportive for clients to begin their path into health and healing.





I'm very excited to welcome Veronica Cervantes to Hannah Sowd Skin Care. She is offering her healing blend of massage techniques Sundays, Mondays and Tuesdays at our studio in San Francisco. Book your session with Veronica today!

Hannah Sowd is a San Francisco based esthetician and massage therapist. She is the owner of Hannah Sowd Skin Care .

Antioxidants: Who? What? When? Where? Why?

Antioxidants are the trendy skin care ingredient right now. Here's a simple breakdown to determine if they are something you should be adding to your routine.

Who?
Everyone. Especially those over the age of 30, smokers, and sun worshipers.

What?
Superfruits like Goji berries, Acai berries, coffee berries, white and greens teas and COQ10 are examples of ingredients that neutralize free radical damage. Damage from free radicals is the common denominator is most skin issues.

When?
Every day. Use an antioxidant product  under your SPF to enhance it's protective properties and at night under your moisturizer to repair cellular damage while you sleep.

Where?
On your face, neck and decollete.

Why?
To neutralize environmental damage from free radicals, reduce inflammation,  calm acne, moisturize the skin and prevent wrinkles.

Soothing Menopausal Skin

This post is from guest blogger Renee Iverson:

When your skin changes, you must change your skin care!

Just as every woman has a different coming of age story or perhaps a unique birthing tale, so it goes with every woman’s journey through menopause.  One thing is common among almost all women – they experience changes in the skin.

The hormonal shifts experienced during menopause can wreak havoc on the skin.  Where skin was once plump and dewy, often becomes sunken and lackluster. Acne once again rears its ugly head and wrinkles, crinkles and spots seem to appear over night.

In my personal experience, bone dry skin, increased facial hair and deep cystic acne eruptions have become my constant foes.  What I have learned in my journey from your average American Mom to Hot Flash Mama is that when your skin changes, you must change your skin care! Soothing your hot skin and hot body is a must to bring relief and quickly heal hormonal breakouts. 

Any time your body is having a hot flash, the inflammation cascade is kicked into high gear. One of my favorite soothing products is  Soothing Gel Mask. This mask brings comforting moisture and repair-support to any skin type in minutes with an instantly cooling high potency blend of hydrating Panthenol, calming Allantoin and ultra-soothing Sea Whip. 

To gently exfoliate, clear up cystic acne and cool at the same time try Purifying Comfort Mask. This gel mask purifies skin’s surface, dissolves dead cells, cools heat and redness and encourages skin to repair itself. It contains a form of Chinese licorice that interrupts the biochemical cascade that leads to redness and other discomfort. This gel also decreases lipase, an enzyme that increases inflammation and irritation in the skin.

Many women experience increased facial hair during menopause.  One thing I find, is that most women with unwanted hair are master pluckers! Acne is often the result of plucked hair because it inflames the dermal tissue around the hair follicle causing it to close down and create a pimple.  Again the Soothing Gel Mask and the Purifying Comfort Mask are must-have products to soothe the area around the follicle.  Pore Purifying Astringent is a wonderful product for cleaning the skin before and after you pluck.  Follow that with either of the masks and you will rarely get pimples.

Exfoliating menopausal skin is a must, but many of the methods used in the past can be too harsh and cause unwanted inflammation – the number one cause of aging in the skin. If you find that your skin is not happy with your current routine, it is time for a change! Perhaps you should try Radiance Boost Exfoliating Toner for any skin type needing light exfoliation.  This mild exfoliating freshener can be used once or twice daily to brighten, revive radiance and minimize pores.

There are so many variables that go into creating healthy vibrant skin. It is so important to be educated about what is happening with your skin so you can make informed choices about its care. A facial with a licensed aesthetician and skin care expert - someone who knows skin care ingredient chemistry and skin physiology is an essential step on your journey to beautiful skin for the rest of your life!




Renee Iverson  is the resident Aesthetician at Mountain Sun in Kirkland, WA.  She is all about focusing on techniques to improve the look, feel and function of the skin with an emphasis on long-term healing and rejuvenation modalities.  She has earned continuing education credits from UCLA Extension studying ingredient chemistry, skin physiology, and advanced skin care ingredients for specific skin conditions. You can follow her on Twitter.

"I'm 28 years old, do I need to use an eye cream?"

Q: I recently turned 28 and notice fine lines forming around my eyes. I have a very expressive smile and don't want to end up with "crows feet"! Is is too early to start using eye cream?

A: No. A high quality eye cream will do a lot more to prevent the signs of aging than to correct damage once it's occurred.

There are many products to choose from, the two most common are creams and gels. Gels are lighter in weight and great to use during the day since they have a temporary smoothing and tightening effect. Creams are more moisturizing which makes them good for nighttime or both day and night if you have very dry skin.

Read the ingredients before you purchase a product. Peptides are very important, they encourage the skin to produce more collagen which will have a lasting effect on the eye area. Ingredients like Vitamin C and AHA's are great to lighten hyper-pigmented areas under the eyes.

Choose a product that fits into your budget, you will see improvement after a time but you need to keep using it for the benefits to last.


Hannah Sowd is a San Francisco based esthetician and massage therapist. She is the owner of Hannah Sowd Skin Care .

Can going off "the pill" cause acne?

Many of my clients have transitioned off oral contraceptives over the years and the majority of them have some level of skin reaction. This article does a great job of explaining the possible physiological reasons for the skin reaction. Keep in mind, the acne created from the shift in hormone levels is temporary and can be keep under control with some simple changes to your routine. Consult your favorite skin care specialist for recommendations!

Hannah Sowd is a San Francisco based esthetician and massage therapist. She is the owner of Hannah Sowd Skin Care .


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Recent Posts

  1. What's wrong with organic skin care?
    Wednesday, May 22, 2013
  2. Anti Aging Secrets: proactive versus reactive
    Sunday, May 12, 2013
  3. Laser Tattoo Removal
    Wednesday, May 01, 2013
  4. Antioxidant Therapy
    Sunday, April 21, 2013
  5. "Do I need to use a toner?"
    Wednesday, April 10, 2013
  6. Welcome Veronica!
    Friday, March 22, 2013
  7. Antioxidants: Who? What? When? Where? Why?
    Wednesday, March 20, 2013
  8. Soothing Menopausal Skin
    Saturday, March 09, 2013
  9. "I'm 28 years old, do I need to use an eye cream?"
    Wednesday, February 27, 2013
  10. Can going off "the pill" cause acne?
    Sunday, February 17, 2013

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